Muffuletta

Last Year's Post:  Breakfast Sandwiches with Canadian Bacon, Chipotle Cheddar and Guacamole
Two Years Ago:   Lemony Chicken Saltimbocca

I love a good sandwich so much that I've decided to occasionally post great sandwiches from around the world such as Italian tuna sandwich, banh mi, pan bagnat, and chicken gyros.  The Muffuletta is arguably one of the most famous sandwiches in the United States, originating with Italian immigrants in New Orleans. The term "muffuletta" refers both to the round loaf of bread, and to the sandwich itself.  And what a sandwich - a signature olive relish plus thick layers of provolone, mortadella and hot soppressata, all pressed together to make a cohesive whole.  When you bite into a wedge (the biggest challenge is actually getting your mouth around it) you get tastes of creamy cheese, hot sausage, salty olives, crunchy veggies and olive oil that has soaked into the bread, keeping it moist and delicious.

This is an indulgent sandwich.  As a matter of fact, I felt guilty enough the day I made it that I spent extra time on the treadmill and then tried to eat very slowly and mindfully, savoring what I knew was going to be an infrequent treat prefaced and followed by days of salads.  (Doesn't mindful eating counteract at least some of the calories?  Sort of like drinking Diet Coke with pizza, one of my favorite irrational rationalizations.)

You could, of course, cut down on the meats, cheese and olive oil, and serve the sandwich on thin-sliced bread  if you wanted an approximation of the tastes with less guilt.  But I wanted to try the real deal.  The sacrifices I make in the name of culinary curiosity.

First is the bread:  a round, slightly flatted loaf of soft Italian white bread with a slightly crisp crust, typically with sesame seeds on top.  I couldn't find the exact right loaf but found a very close approximation at my grocery store that was labeled "sheepherder bread".  Why they are making sheepherder bread for mass consumption is another question for which I have no answer, but it worked - the only thing missing was the sesame seeds.  Basically any 6-8" round white loaf will work, as long as it doesn't have a really hard crust.

Next is the olive relish.  First you briefly cook cauliflower, carrots and celery in olive oil and spices, then you combine that mixture with green and black olives, pepperoncini, and pimentos.  My suggestion is to head to your local salad bar because you need relatively small amounts of the cauliflower, carrots and celery, plus every store has an olive bar these days.

Next up is the filling:  provolone cheese (easy to find), mortadella (sort of like Italian bologna, harder to find in a grocery store but still possible), and hot soppressatta (a hot salami, difficult to find - I finally found some at my local Italian market).  If you're either the type of person who either a) enjoys these culinary treasure hunts, or b) wants to try an authentic version of the recipe, it's worth the effort.  Otherwise, you could substitute other Italian meats such as bologna and hot salami from the deli case.

The final part is assembly and squishing (yes, squishing).  The olive relish goes on both cut and hollowed-out bread halves to make sure the dressing soaks into the top and bottom of the sandwich.  (This is important but slightly problematic as you'll see in a minute.)   The cheese and meats are layered on the bottom half, then you're supposed to "carefully" place the top on the bottom.  With a million little olive relish pieces falling out all over.  Right.  My solution was to place one layer of soppressata on the top half and the rest on the bottom half, so the olive relish on the top was at least covered.  Then you quickly flip the top over onto the bottom half.  This takes commitment and, once started, there's no going back.  But it did work.

And now for the squishing - wrap the whole loaf tightly in plastic wrap and weigh it down with a cast iron skillet (or just gently press down on it occasionally) for at least an hour or up to overnight.  The recipe doesn't specify to refrigerate it at this point, and I would assume that leaving it out for an hour or two would be perfectly fine, but for any time longer than that I would refrigerate it.  The squishing and standing time  allows the sandwich to become a cohesive whole which will cut beautifully as you can see by the picture.  So, make the sandwich in the morning and you have the perfect take-along loaf for you and three friends for your next concert in the park.   Just make sure you work out first.

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Muffuletta

Serves 4

Note:  this recipe requires at least an hour of standing time after assembly so plan ahead.

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

½ medium carrot, thinly sliced

½ rib celery, thinly sliced

½ cup finely chopped cauliflower

½ teaspoon dried oregano

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

¼ cup water

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

½ cup pitted green olives, finely chopped

¼ cup pitted kalamata olives, finely chopped

5 pepperoncini, stemmed and thinly sliced

2 jarred pimento peppers, finely chopped

6-8” round Italian loaf with sesame seeds, split horizontally and hollowed out

4 ounces thinly sliced provolone cheese

5 ounces thinly sliced mortadella

5 ounces thinly sliced hot soppressata

Prepare the relish:  Combine the olive oil, carrot, celery, cauliflower, oregano, chile flakes and water in a small saucepan over medium-high heat and simmer until the vegetables are not quite tender, about 4 minutes.  Transfer to a small bowl and add the vinegar, olives, pepperoncini and pimento peppers.  Stir to combine.

To assemble the sandwich, divide the olive relish between the top and bottom half of the bread, including liquids.  Layer the provolone, mortadella and hot soppressata on the bottom half, making sure none of the meat or cheese extends over the sides of the bread.  Place the last few pieces of meat on the top half of the bread to cover the olive relish,  then quickly and decisively turn the top half over onto the bottom half, replacing any stray relish pieces than may have fallen out.  Wrap the sandwich tightly in plastic wrap, then weight it down with a cast iron skillet or gently press on the top of the sandwich occasionally with your hands.  Let stand for at least an hour or up to overnight, refrigerating after an hour.

Cut into four wedges to serve.

Prosciutto, Mozzarella and Radicchio Panini

Last Year's Post: Classic Potato Gratin
Two Years Ago:  French Chicken Salad

We went to an outdoor concert the other day and wanted to bring a picnic dinner.  I was inspired to make these Italian sandwiches because they have a most interesting combinations of flavors - definitely a big people kind of sandwich - and it's always good to get out of a sandwich rut.  The prosciutto is salty, the radicchio and arugula are bitter, the balsamic vinegar is sweet, the mozzarella is creamy, and the artichokes are, well, artichokes.  Trust me, it all works together.  The original recipe called it a panini although it wasn't grilled, just served fresh.  In my book paninis are grilled, which has the advantage of sort of gluing the whole sandwich together with cheese.  Otherwise there are a lot of little pieces in the sandwich which could easily fall out.  But, if you don't want to grill the sandwich you certainly don't have to.

Radicchio is that little round red guy in the produce department that sort of looks like a small cabbage.  Marinating it in balsamic vinegar for a few minutes while you assemble the sandwiches takes away some of the bitterness.

After prepping the artichokes and mozzarella, it's just simple assembly and grilling the sandwiches.

Paninis are always delicious hot off the press, but these sandwiches were equally good wrapped up and enjoyed at the concert.  Picnic food!

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Prosciutto, Mozzarella and Radicchio Panini

Makes 6 sandwiches

¼ cup olive oil

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

Pinch of red pepper flakes

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ head radicchio

4 ounces thinly sliced prosciutto

Two 6-ounce jars marinated artichoke hearts, drained and chopped

1 pound fresh mozzarella, sliced

¼ cup fresh Italian parsley leaves

8 ounces baby arugula

12 slices from a loaf of ciabatta bread

Olive oil spray

In a large bowl, whisk together the olive and balsamic vinegar.  Season with a pinch of red pepper flakes, salt and pepper.

Slice the radicchio into thin ribbons.  Add to the vinaigrette and toss together.  Set aside to marinate.

Lay the bread out on a work surface and spray lightly with olive oil spray.  Turn the slices over and layer half the slices in the following order:  prosciutto, artichokes, and mozzarella slices.  Add the parsley leaves to the radicchio mixture, toss to combine, and place on top of the mozzarella.  Finish with the arugula and top with the remaining bread slices, olive oil side up.

Heat a Panini press and grill until the cheese melts and the bread is toasty and golden, about 3-5 minutes.  Serve hot or at room temperature.

Chicken and Mushroom Gratinate

Last Year's Post: Power Muffins
Two Years Ago:  Sloppy Joes for Grown-Ups

The first question that came to mind when I found this recipe is "what the heck is a gratinate?"  Here's the definition according to the dictionary:  gratinate - to cook with a covering of buttered crumbs or grated cheese until a crust or crisp surface forms.  "Gratin" has more or less then same definition, so don't ask me how they're different.

Anyway, this is a rustic Italian dish from Lidia Bastianich that certainly fits the description:  chicken and mushrooms covered in melted cheese and cooked in a tomato wine sauce.  

The chicken is cooked on the stovetop low and slow to get it started and keep it tender, then the dish is finished in the oven to melt the cheese and thicken the sauce.

The whole thing cooks in one skillet which makes it great for a weekday meal and gives you time to prepare something to soak up the sauce on the side:  pasta, mashed potatoes, or polenta.  I chose polenta simply because we're having pasta later in the week.

It's somewhat reminiscent of chicken parmesan, but without the fried crust and heavy red sauce.  This dish is lighter while still fancy enough to serve for a Sunday dinner or special occasion.  And completely delicious.

Chicken and Mushroom Gratinate

Serves 4

2 large boneless skinless chicken breasts (about 20 ounces total)

4 ounces shiitake mushrooms, cleaned and stems removed

½ cup flour for dredging

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 tablespoons butter, divided, cut into cubes

1 cup tomato sauce or tomato puree

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

2/3 cup dry white wine

6 fresh sage leaves, shredded

12 small thin slices Fontina cheese, about 4 ounces

8 tablespoons shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano

Preheat oven to 425d.

Cut chicken breasts in half horizontally to form 4 cutlets.  Pound lightly to an even thickness, then dredge in flour to lightly coat both sides.  Salt and pepper each side.  Set aside.

In a large oven-proof skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat.  Add the mushroom caps in a single layer and sauté, about 2 minutes per side, until tender and browned.  Remove and salt lightly.

Add 1 tablespoon of butter to the olive oil remaining in the pan and reduce heat to medium-low.  When the butter is melted, add the chicken cutlets in one layer and cook gently for about 90 seconds, until very lightly colored with no browning.  Turn cutlets over and spread a heaping tablespoon of tomato sauce on top of each.  Arrange the mushroom caps over the chicken, overlapping to cover, then add 3 small slices of Fontina on top of each cutlet, overlapping to cover.

Raise the heat to medium and sprinkle the red pepper flakes into the sauce.  Add the remaining butter into the sauce.  After the butter melts add the wine and remainder of the tomato sauce around the cutlets (not over them).  Bring to a simmer, then drop the sage into the sauce all around the pan.  Finally, sprinkle two tablespoons of shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano over each cutlet.   

Place the skillet in the oven for 10 minutes, then check to see that the cheese is melted and the sauce has thickened somewhat.  Turn the broiler on and continue to bake for 3-4 minutes, watching carefully, until the cheese is browned to your liking (do not let burn).

Serve immediately, with polenta, mashed potatoes or pasta to soak up the sauce.

Eggplant and Rice Parmigiana

Last Year's Post: Italian Sausage Soup
Two Years Ago:  Rosemary-Lemon Grilled Ahi with Pearl Couscous

Winter and Italian comfort food just go together, don't they?  Rich tomato sauce, gooey cheese, yum.  I recently came across this recipe from Lidia Bastianich, one of my favorite chefs, and was particularly attracted to it because it contains eggplant but it's not fried, which eggplant usually is.  And it's elegant in its simplicity - rice, tomatoes, eggplant, cheese - but can be fancied up by adding mild or hot Italian sausage.  And it can feed a bunch of hungry people if you double the recipe for a 9x13" pan.  Served with a green side salad, it makes a complete and very satisfying meal even though it's vegetarian.  And if that's not enough, it makes great leftovers the next day.  I could hardly wait to make it.

The only thing that kind of surprised me was the absence of garlic and red pepper flakes, which are absolute Italian classics that Lidia almost always uses.  I first tried the recipe by the book before fiddling with it as one of my pet peeves is people who totally change a recipe before they make it and then feel free to tell you why they didn't like the recipe even though they never actually tried the recipe. Grrr. Anyway, as I suspected the recipe seemed to need a little something in terms of fine-tuning which turned out to be the garlic and a pinch of red pepper flakes.  If you like heat, feel free to add more red pepper flakes.  Or add hot Italian sausage.  That's the beauty of a simple and classic recipe - you can make it your own.

You start by cooking arborio rice, the classic rice used for risottos.  Arborio rice holds up well to the long baking time without becoming mushy and has a creaminess that combines with the tomatoes.  You just need to start an hour or so in advance so the rice has time to cook and then cool.

The eggplants are peeled, sliced lengthwise, and place in a colander for 20 minutes with a decent amount of salt to draw out their moisture.  They get a quick rinse and pat dry before going into the sauce to cook.  Then it's assembly time - sauce, rice, eggplant, and cheeses in layers much like a lasagna.  After it's baked and has rested for a few minutes, you're ready to scoop out big spoonfuls to everyone who's been hanging around the kitchen salivating at the smells for the past hour.

  

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Eggplant and Rice Parmigiana

Serves 6-8

Notes: Plan ahead – the rice needs to cook and cool before proceeding.  If desired, a layer of cooked and crumbled hot or mild Italian sausage may be added.  The recipe may be doubled to fit a 9x13” baking pan.

1 cup Arborio rice

1 fresh bay leaf

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

¾ teaspoon kosher salt, divided, plus more for salting the eggplant

2 small Italian eggplants, about 1 ½ lbs before trimming

2 cloves garlic, minced

½ cup chopped onion

1 (28 ounce) can whole San Marzano tomatoes, crushed by hand

pinch of crushed red pepper flakes

¼ cup loosely packed fresh basil leaves, chopped

2 cup shredded low-moisture mozzarella

½ cup grated Grana Padano cheese (may substitute grated Parmesan)

In a medium saucepan, combine the rice, bay leaf, 1 cup water, 2 teaspoons olive oil, and 1/8 teaspoon salt.  Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook until the water is absorbed, about 7 minutes.  The rice will still be al dente.  Spread the rice onto a sheet pan to cool.

Peel the eggplants in stripes leaving some of the skin, and cut the tops and bottoms off. Cut the eggplants into ¼”-thick lengthwise planks (from top to bottom) and layer the planks in a large colander in the sink.  Sprinkle liberally with kosher salt and cover with a bowl that has a diameter slightly smaller than the colander.  Weight the bowl with cans to help press the excess liquid from the eggplant.  After 20 minutes, rinse and drain the eggplant and pat dry.

Heat the remaining olive oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat.  Add the onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes, adding the garlic after half the time.  Add the tomatoes, rinsing out the can or bowl used to crush them with an additional ½ cup of water, and add that to the pot. Season with ½ teaspoon salt and the red pepper flakes and bring to a boil.  Place the eggplant slices in the sauce, pushing them down to cover them completely.  Cover the pot and simmer 15 minutes.  Stir in the basil and remove from heat.

Toss the two cheeses together in a small bowl.

Preheat the oven to 375d.

To assemble, ladle one third of the sauce into a 8x8” or similar baking dish.  Remove one third of the eggplant from the sauce and layer it in the dish.  Spread half the rice over the eggplant, then layer another third of the eggplant followed by another third of the sauce.  Spread with half the cheese.  Top with a final layer of rice, eggplant and sauce.  Top evenly with the rest of the cheese. 

Spray a piece of foil with non-stick spray and cover the dish.  Place the dish on a foil-covered baking sheet and baked for 25 minutes.  Uncover and bake an additional 25-30 minutes until browned and crusty on top.  Let stand 10-15 minutes before serving.

Pan-Seared Tuna with Capers and Red Wine Sauce

Last Year's Post:  Orzo and Radicchio Salad
Two Years Ago:   Pan Bagnat

We try to eat seafood once or twice per week because it's light, healthy and a good change of pace.  The whole key is to find whatever is fresh and fabulous at the store.  This week we found some beautiful wild-caught fresh tuna; I was particularly excited to find small thick steaks rather than larger thinner steaks because they're much easier to cook without over-cooking.  I learned that lesson many years ago from an avid Vermont fisherman who told me never to cook tuna any more than medium-rare because it gets dry and tough.  I'm still not a sushi person but I do like tuna with a very pink center.

It's a good idea to ask the person at the fish counter whether the fish you're looking at was previously frozen - the label doesn't always say, and freezing/thawing does affect both texture and taste.  Always go for fresh when you can.

Although I love most foods grilled, I prefer meaty fish steaks such as tuna and swordfish pan-seared because that's the only way to get a uniformly caramelized crust.  A cast-iron skillet is your tool of choice for getting that beautiful crust without sticking - just be sure to let the fish cook for the first two minutes over high heat without touching it.  Then carefully try to lift it with tongs, and if it's ready it should release without any problems.  If not, let it cook for 30 seconds or so and try again. If you don't have a cast-iron skillet use a regular skillet instead - just don't use a non-stick pan because the browning will never happen.

The other benefit to cooking indoors  (in the height of summer) is air conditioning - it's never attractive to bring in a plate of grilled food when you're dripping with sweat. My rule of thumb is cook outdoors when it's nice (60-90d-ish) and cook indoors at other times.  The Lawyer has been known to grill in weather as cold as -25d or as hot as 110d; proof that intelligence and common sense don't always go hand in hand.

Plating is a matter of stacking/assemblage.  You could put everything side by side on the plate but that wouldn't be nearly as cool.

This recipe is very Italian and would go beautifully with a soft red wine such as a Pinot Noir or Merlot.  Interesting fact of the day - tannic red wines can make fish taste metallic or fishy.  Who knew?

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Pan-Seared Tuna with Capers and Red Wine Sauce

Serves 4

¼ cup capers, drained

2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano

1 small shallot, minced

3 tablespoons olive oil, divided

Four small tuna steaks, 1 ½ inches thick

2 teaspoons anchovy paste

1 cup dry red wine

2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 2 pieces

4 cups packed baby arugula

Hot mashed potatoes

In a bowl, mix the capers with the oregano, shallot and 1 tablespoon of olive oil.  Season with salt and pepper and set aside.

Start cooking the mashed potatoes.  Pat the tuna steaks dry and season with salt and pepper on both sides.

While the potatoes are cooking, heat a large skillet (preferably cast iron, but not non-stick) over medium-high heat.  When the pan is good and hot, add one tablespoon of olive oil and quickly swirl the pan to coat.  Add the tuna steaks and let cook undisturbed for approximately two minutes, until the bottom is nicely browned and releases easily from the pan.  Flip the tuna steaks and cook for approximately 2 minutes more, until rare to medium-rare (cook time will vary with the thickness of the steaks.)  Remove and let rest.  (Note: there will be some carry-over cooking while the tuna rests; do not overcook in the pan.  The inside should still be red when they’re taken out.)

Add the anchovy paste to the same skillet over medium heat and mash around with the back of a wooden spoon for approximately 30 seconds.  Add the wine and boil until reduced by half, about 4 minutes.  Remove the skillet from heat and swirl in the butter, one piece at a time, until smooth.  Season the sauce with salt and pepper.

In a medium bowl, toss the arugula with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil and season with salt.  Finish the mashed potatoes.

To plate:  divide hot mashed potatoes between plates.  Place arugula on top of potatoes, then add a tuna steak on top.  Sprinkle caper mixture on top of tuna steak and drizzle red wine sauce around the side of the plate.

Chicken Parmesan with Oven-Roasted Tomato Sauce

 Last Year's Post:  Orange-Pecan Salmon with Three Pea Salad
Two Years Ago:    Perfect Lasagna

You can probably already tell this is not your typical chicken parmesan.   When I tell you that the recipe comes from Cooking Light magazine and has fewer calories, fat grams and sodium than regular chicken parm you may be tempted to quit reading because it can't be any good, right?......but that would be a big mistake.  Because you're right, this isn't your normal chicken parmesan, it's way better.

The chicken is tender and moist, with a crunchy coating of panko crumbs, parmesan and garlic.  The sauce is filled with the bright fresh sweetness of roasted tomatoes, shallot and more garlic.  The whole thing is topped with melted creamy mozzarella and fresh basil, served alongside hot spaghetti.  The flavors are much brighter and fresher than normal chicken parmesan, and the contrast of textures from crunchy to juicy to creamy is particularly appealing.

There are a couple of secrets to making it healthier.  The first is to use chicken cutlets rather than a whole chicken breast.  The chicken cutlets are smaller but still completely satisfying and filling.  It's easy to make your own cutlets by cutting a chicken breast in half horizontally.

The next secret is to use a light mayo and parmesan coating on the chicken prior to dredging in toasted panko crumbs and oven-roasting the chicken, which keeps the chicken moist on the inside and crunchy on the outside without the fat and calories of frying.

The final secret is the oven-roasted tomato sauce, which has fewer calories and sodium than marinara sauce and actually tastes much better.  You can make it any time of the year with regular cherry tomatoes from the grocery store - they taste fabulous after being oven-roasted to bring out their flavor and sweetness.

This recipe looked so pretty I just had to try it.  I was so impressed by the flavor that I kept telling The Lawyer "I just can't believe how good this is" the entire time we were eating.  I think you'll be impressed too.

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Chicken Parmesan with Oven-Roasted Tomato Sauce

Serves 4

1 lb cherry tomatoes, halved

2 tablespoons olive oil, divided

1 shallot, sliced

4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

¼ cup low-sodium chicken broth

¼ cup dry white wine

1 teaspoon fresh thyme

½ teaspoon kosher salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ cup panko bread crumbs

2 (8 oz) boneless skinless chicken breast halves

3 tablespoons light mayonnaise

1.5 oz Parmesan cheese, grated and divided (about 6 tablespoons)

1 teaspoon garlic powder

Cooking spray

2 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese, very thinly sliced

¼ cup fresh basil leaves

Hot cooked spaghetti

Special equipment:  wire rack

Preheat oven to 375d.

Combine tomatoes and 1 tablespoon oil in a bowl; toss.  Arrange tomato mixture in a single layer on a large shallow broiler pan; bake at 375d for 35 minutes or until lightly browned.  Remove and set aside.

Increase oven temperature to 425d.

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a medium skillet over medium heat.  Add shallot; cook five minutes.  Add garlic; cook one minute.  Add tomatoes, stock, wine, thyme, salt and pepper; cook 4 minutes or until liquid almost evaporates.   Set aside.

Place panko crumbs in a large skillet; cook over medium heat 3 minutes or until toasted, stirring frequently.  Cut each chicken breast in half horizontally to form 4 cutlets.  Combine mayonnaise and half of Parmesan in a small bowl.  Spread mayonnaise mixture evenly over both sides of cutlets.

Combine panko, garlic powder, and remaining half of Parmesan in a shallow bowl or plate, and dredge cutlets in the panko mixture.  Place cutlets on a wire rack coated with cooking spray.  Place rack on a baking sheet.  Bake at 425d for 15 minutes.

Top each cutlet with 2 tablespoons tomato mixture; top tomato mixture evenly with mozzarella cheese.  Broil 3 minutes (watching closely) until cheese is bubbly.  Sprinkle with basil and serve with remaining tomato mixture and hot cooked spaghetti.