Hainanese Chicken and Rice

Hainanese chicken and rice is a delicate dish, perfect for someone who's under the weather or when you just want a comforting and healthy chicken dish.  Chicken breasts are gently poached/steamed over rice until they're moist and tender, while the fragrant rice is scented with ginger and a touch of soy sauce. I think steaming the chicken on top of rice is genius because it's an incredibly simple one pot wonder.   Green onions and toasted almonds add flavor and texture as garnishes, and the dipping sauce are important as well because the chicken is, well, chicken.  That's the basic dish.  From there, you can choose the fast and simple route to the finish line, or the slightly more complex but interesting route.

For the fast and simple route, slice up some fresh cucumbers and serve the dish with soy sauce, sweet chili garlic sauce and pickled ginger on the side.  You can pick up both the sweet chili garlic sauce and pickled ginger in the Asian section of your grocery store.

For the slightly more complex route, start by making quick pickled cucumbers (below) before you make the chicken and rice so they have time to marinate for a little while.  Make the ginger sauce (below) while the chicken and rice cook.  Serve the pickled cucumbers, pickled ginger, sweet chili garlic sauce and ginger sauce with the chicken and rice.  Even with making the cucumbers and ginger sauce you can still have dinner on the table in under an hour.

You can never have too many chicken and rice recipes, right?

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Hainanese Chicken and Rice

Serves 4

10 oz rice

1 ½ cups chicken broth

1 tablespoon minced ginger

1 tablespoon soy sauce

2 teaspoons butter

1 tsp salt

½ large carrot, shredded

2 boneless skinless chicken breasts (lightly pounded if uneven in thickness), seasoned with salt and pepper

2 green onions, sliced

3 tablespoons toasted sliced almonds

Sweet chili garlic sauce (comes in a bottle in the grocer’s Asian section)

Ginger sauce (below) or soy sauce

Pickled cucumbers (below) or fresh sliced cucumbers

Pickled ginger, optional

Cilantro sprigs

Wash the rice with cold water and put it into a pan. Add the chicken broth, ginger, soy sauce, butter, salt and carrots. Mix the ingredients thoroughly before placing the chicken breasts on top. Press gently on the chicken to partially submerge in liquid. Put the lid on the pan and let simmer on low heat for 14 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the pan sit covered for another 10 minutes. 

Remove the chicken breasts from the pan and slice crosswise into ¾” slices.  Stir the green onions into the rice, reserving a few for garnish. To serve, divide the rice between plates and top with sliced chicken.  Garnish with cilantro sprigs and reserved green onions.  Add pickled cucumbers and pickled ginger on the side.  Serve with ginger sauce (or soy sauce) and sweet chili garlic sauce for dipping.

Ginger Sauce

1/4 cup chopped onion

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger

½ lemon, juiced

1/4 cup soy sauce

1/4 teaspoon sugar

1/4 teaspoon white vinegar

Combine all sauce ingredients in a small food processor and process until smooth.  Serve at room temperature.

Quick Pickled Cucumbers

½ seedless cucumber, very thinly sliced

¼ cup rice wine vinegar

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon toasted sesame oil

In a medium bowl, whisk together all ingredients except cucumbers until the sugar is dissolved.  Add cucumbers and toss well.  Marinate for at least 15 minutes and up to a day.

Cardamom Cognac Apple Cake

It's almost officially fall, and that means apples.  This is not your typical apple pie or tart or crumble - it's a very moist, thin cake completely filled with apples and pecans and flavored with cardamom and cognac.  It's sophisticated and tastes quite French, which is a good thing in my world.  Normal people might think of this as a dessert, in which case you might want to add a little sweetened whipped cream or vanilla yogurt on the side.  I'm not much of a dessert person so to me this is weekend brunch fare with a good strong cup of coffee on the side.

As I said, the cake is very moist and actually there isn't much actual cake because there are so many apples.  It's almost like an apple pie with a little bit of cake batter.  The cognac adds a complex flavor note and the cardamom adds warm spice.  If you like cardamom, I guarantee you'll like this cake. 

If you have it for brunch (or not), cut the leftovers into individual slices and freeze (wrapped tightly) for breakfast during the week. 

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Cardamom Cognac Apple Cake

Serves 6-8

1 cup all-purpose flour

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

¼ teaspoon cinnamon

¾ teaspoon baking powder

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

2 large eggs, at room temperature

3/4 cup granulated sugar

3 tablespoons cognac (Calvados or bourbon work well too)

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

1/3 cup buttermilk, at room temperature

½ cup pecans, lightly toasted and coarsely chopped

3 medium Honeycrisp apples

1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, melted, plus more for greasing the pan

1 tablespoon coarse (sparkling) sugar

Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting, optional

Preheat the oven to 350F. Place a piece of parchment paper into a 9-or 10-inch cast iron pan and grease with butter.

 In a bowl, whisk together the flour, cardamom, cinnamon, baking powder, and salt. In a separate larger bowl, beat the eggs until foamy. Whisk in the granulated sugar, cognac, and vanilla extract. Pour in the buttermilk and whisk to combine. 

Peel, halve, and core 2 1/2 of the apples, then cut them into 1/2-inch cubes. Reserve the remaining ½ apple (unpeeled, and cut into very thin slices) for the top. 

 Add half of the flour mixture to the wet ingredients, stirring until just combined, then gently fold in half of the melted butter. Repeat with the remaining flour and butter. Gently fold in the pecans and cubed apples (reserving the slices). Transfer the batter to the pan and arrange the apple slices in groups on top of the batter. Sprinkle with sparkling sugar.

Bake until the cake turns golden brown and a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean, about 55-65 minutes. Transfer the skillet to a cooling rack and let sit for 5-10 minutes before carefully lifting the cake and paper out of the pan (have an extra set of hands helps to do this). The cake may be served warm or at room temperature.  Dust with confectioners’ sugar before serving, if desired. 

Quick Pickled Onions

I don't normally post recipes for garnishes or condiments, but this one is good enough to deserve attention.  Sometimes the right condiment can make a big difference in a finished dish as a contrast to the other flavors and textures, but it needs to have big flavor to stand out.  In this recipe red onions are pickled for just a few hours so they retain some crunch but pick up a vinegary pop and complexity from the whole spices.

I first discovered this recipe as a recommended garnish for fried rice of all things, but I've noticed that chef Rick Bayless often recommends pickled onions as a garnish for Mexican dishes such as tacos, enchiladas, tortas and meatballs.  I've used pickled onions as a topping for burgers and find them to be much better than regular onion, and they also work well in rice bowls and noodle bowls.  And they're the perfect accompaniment for any grilled or barbecued meats such as pulled pork or ribs because the vinegar cuts through all that fatty richness.  Finally, hot dishes that are creamy also benefit from a garnish of a few pickled onions for contrast.

Basically, they go with pretty much everything so I find myself making them often.  They're extremely easy to make and marinating them for just a few hours ensures the onions don't get too soft.  If you have barbecue or burgers or Mexican food on the menu, do give them a try.  They're worth it.

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 Quick Pickled Onions

Serves 6-8

½ red onion, thinly sliced

½ cup white vinegar or apple cider vinegar

½ cup water

¾ teaspoon kosher salt

1 ½ tablespoons sugar (or honey or other substitute)

1-2 teaspoons whole spices, optional (any combination of whole peppercorns, fennel seed, cumin, caraway seeds, coriander)

  

Place the vinegar, water, salt, sugar and whole spices in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat.  Simmer 2-3 minutes, stirring.  Remove from the stove and let cool completely.

Place the onions in a jar and pour over the liquid and spices.  Cover tightly and store in the refrigerator for at least an hour and up to 6 hours before use, shaking occasionally.

The pickled onions may be kept in the refrigerator for several days.

Zucchini Gratin with Gruyere

It's zucchini time again, whether it comes from your garden, the farm stand, or the grocery store.  This is a Provencal-style gratin where the veggies are bound with rice and a small amount of eggs and the flavor is boosted by herbs, Gruyere and parmesan.  Pine nuts are sprinkled on the top for some crunch, but if you don't have pint nuts you could use some slivered almonds or even some panko bread crumbs moistened with olive oil.

I thought about adding some corn but ultimately decided against it because I wanted the zucchini to be the star (but you certainly could).  To make it even more summery (and because you're probably growing herbs in your garden as well), make the herb sauce to go with it.  Add some crusty grilled bread and you have the perfect summer vegetarian meal.  Or, sneak in a little cubed ham and the meal becomes a little more substantial while still remaining vegetable-centric.

And my favorite part?  The last line of the recipe: "The gratin is good hot, warm, or room temperature."  Perfect warm for dinner, and cold for lunch the next day.

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Zucchini Gratin with Gruyere

Serves 6

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

½ medium onion, chopped (about 1 cup chopped)

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 Fresno chile, diced

1 pound zucchini, cut lengthwise into quarters and then crosswise into ½ inch pieces

1 small red bell pepper, chopped into ½ inch pieces

 Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

2 large or extra-large eggs

½ teaspoon salt

 Freshly ground pepper

½ cup milk

1 cup cooked Arborio or Carnaroli rice (1/3 cup raw)

1 teaspoon coarsely chopped fresh thyme leaves

1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil

½ cup (tightly packed) grated Gruyère cheese

¼ cup (tightly packed) freshly grated Parmesan

1 cup cooked cubed ham, optional

2 tablespoons pine nuts, lightly toasted

Green herb sauce, for serving, optional (see recipe below)

Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat and add the onion. Cook, stirring often, until tender, 5 to 8 minutes, and add the garlic, Fresno chile, summer squash, red bell pepper, and about 3/4 teaspoon salt. Turn the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring, until the squash is translucent and the red pepper tender, about 10 minutes. Add freshly ground pepper, taste and adjust salt. Stir in the parsley and remove from the heat.   Let cool.

Preheat the oven to 375d.

Oil a 2-quart baking dish with olive oil. In a medium bowl, beat together the eggs, salt, pepper, and milk. Stir in the rice, thyme, basil, the sautéed squash, the cheeses and optional ham. Scrape into the baking dish.  Sprinkle the pine nuts over the top.

Bake 35 to 40 minutes, until nicely browned on the top and edges. Remove from the oven and allow to stand for at least 10 minutes before serving, or allow to cool. The gratin is good hot, warm, or room temperature.

Green Herb Sauce

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup finely chopped cilantro, basil, or a combination

¼ cup finely chopped Italian parsley

¼ cup finely minced shallot

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (optional)

Mix all ingredients in a small food processor until well combined.

Cold Chile Noodles

A bowl of cold, spicy noodles with a pile of crunchy vegetables is just the ticket for a hot summer day, don't you think?  And very healthy to boot.  This recipe is extremely simple to make and can varied according to whatever crunchy vegetables you happen to have on hand, although the red cabbage is really nice.  If you really like spice, add a sliced jalapeno or Fresno chile.  And of course some rotisserie chicken or leftover roast pork would be a nice addition for a more substantial bowl, but we really like it as a vegetarian meal.  The herbs play an important part in terms of freshness and taste, and it's best to use a combo - I used cilantro, mint, basil and dill.  Try to use at least two or three of your favorites.

Tip: if it's a really hot day, refrigerate the pasta, chile oil and serving bowls in advance and take them out right before serving.  That's a trick that fancy restaurants sometimes use with salad bowls to make the salad seem really cold and crisp.  It's a fun surprise compared to your usual bowl of pasta and sauce.

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Cold Chile Noodles

Serves 4

For the noodles:

½ cup canola oil

1 tablespoon fennel seed

1 tablespoon red pepper flakes

2 garlic cloves, grated

1 lb spaghetti

2 tablespoon rice wine vinegar

Salt and pepper

For the vegetables:

½ head red cabbage, thinly sliced

Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon lemon zest

¼ cup fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons olive oil

4 green onions, thinly sliced

4-6 radishes, thinly sliced

1 cup loosely packed chopped fresh herbs – any combination of cilantro, dill, basil, mint, parsley

½ cup coarsely chopped or crushed peanuts

Heat the oil, fennel seeds, red pepper flakes and garlic in a small saucepan over the lowest heat possible.  Cook, stirring frequently, until you start to see the garlic and spices frizzle in the oil, 5-8 minutes.  Keep cooking at the lowest heat setting until the spices are toasted, another few minutes, but don’t let the garlic get too brown.  Remove from the heat.

Meanwhile, cook the pasta according to package directions; drain and rinse in cold water.  Drain again, then place in a large bowl and toss with a small amount of canola oil to prevent sticking.  If not using right away, the pasta can be put in the refrigerator until ready to serve.

Place the cabbage in a medium bowl and toss with the lemon zest and juice.  Season with salt and pepper and toss with the 2 tablespoons of olive oil.

When ready to serve, toss the pasta with the vinegar and season with salt and pepper.  Add just enough chile oil to coat and toss again.  Divide between shallow bowls and top with cabbage, green onions, radishes, herbs and peanuts.  Pass any additional chile oil at the table.

Sheet Pan Trout and Broccolini

I recently discovered trout.  It's sustainable, healthy, very mild, boneless (when purchased in fillets), easy to cook and reasonable in price.  What's not to like?  In terms of taste, rainbow trout tends to be a little milder than red trout, which has just a touch of salmon-ish flavor.  I particularly like red trout because of the flavor and because they're so pretty - check out how they look when raw (below).

This is a great recipe for trout because it's so easy and foolproof.  If you can't find Aleppo pepper for the sauce, consider ordering it online because it's delicious and very versatile.  It has just a hint of heat and a wonderful warm taste that goes well on fish, chicken, eggs, pasta, veggie dishes, you name it.  If you don't want to buy Aleppo pepper use just a touch of red pepper flakes or chili powder instead.

I served the trout and broccolini with herbed polenta, but mashed potatoes would be equally good.

I think trout is probably the easiest fish to cook because it cooks evenly and fast and doesn't dry out or become tough.  If you've ever ruined a $20 piece of halibut or sea bass you know what I'm talking about.

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Sheet Pan Trout and Broccolini

Serves 4

½ garlic clove, finely grated

2 teaspoons Aleppo pepper (or 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes)

¼ olive oil, plus more for drizzling

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, plus 1 lemon, thinly sliced

Kosher salt and black pepper

4 trout fillets, about 6-8 ounces each

2 bunches broccolini, ends trimmed

2 tablespoons capers

Heat oven to 450d.

To make the sauce, combine garlic, Aleppo pepper, ¼ cup olive oil and 2 tablespoons lemon juice in a small bowl and season with salt and pepper.  Set aside.

If the broccolini stems are relatively thick, cut each stem in half lengthwise to facilitate cooking.

Lay the trout fillets skin side down on a sheet pan next to each other.  Place lemon slices on the trout and scatter broccolini and capers around it.   Drizzle everything with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

Place the sheet pan in the oven on the middle rack and roast until broccolini has started to lightly char around the edges and the trout is opaque and cooked through, 8-10 minutes.  Remove from the oven, push the lemon slices off the top of the trout, and immediately drizzle everything with the sauce.  Let the flavors mingle for a minute or two before dividing among 4 plates.

Tuna and Hummus Sandwiches

I know this sandwich sounds weird - it did to me too.  That's why I didn't make it for over two years after seeing it on Ina Garten's TV show.  She said she had a tuna and hummus sandwich with radishes at Le Pain Quotidien restaurant in Brussels and loved it.  But it still sounded weird, and beige.  Fast forward two years and I happened to catch the re-run and decided I had to make it just to satisfy my curiosity if nothing else.  I did tweak her recipe to include cucumbers, herbs and lemon zest to brighten it up, and used crusty French rolls in place of sourdough bread for more texture since both the tuna and hummus are soft.

First I made the tuna salad, and really liked her version which has much less mayo than a normal version.  She includes a little olive oil and some lemon which I liked as well - the lighter dressing really lets the tuna shine.  Speaking of tuna, I know you should use tuna packed in water if you're watching calories but tuna packed in oil has so much more flavor.  I specifically like Genova canned tuna if you can find it - the flavor is delicate and not fishy, much like fresh tuna.  (And no, I don't get any paid endorsements, I just like it.)  If I can find it at Fry's, you can probably find it in your store also.

The hummus adds a layer of creaminess and a little earthiness to the light and lemony tuna salad that I really liked.  I also really liked the crunchy veggies and bright herbs as a contrast to the tuna and hummus - the radishes and cucumbers reminded me just the littlest bit of a banh mi sandwich, one of my favorites.  

All in all, this is an unusual tweak on a tuna sandwich that I really enjoyed, and I'm very picky about my tuna sandwiches.  Give it a try and see what you think.

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Tuna and Hummus Sandwiches

Serves 2

The tuna mixture should be refrigerated for a few hours for the best flavor so plan ahead.

1 - 5 ounce can tuna in olive oil

¼ cup diced celery

2 tablespoons minced red onion

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1-2 tablespoons mayonnaise

1 tablespoon olive oil

½ teaspoon Dijon mustard

Pinch of kosher salt and pepper

Hummus

Sliced radishes and cucumbers

Fresh herbs – parsley, dill, cilantro

2 crusty French rolls

Drain the tuna and flake it into a medium bowl.  Add the celery, red onion, lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of mayonnaise, olive oil, Dijon, and salt and pepper.  Mix well and decide if you want to add the second tablespoon of mayonnaise.  Taste and adjust seasonings if needed.  Cover and refrigerate for a few hours to let the flavors develop.

Cut the French rolls in half horizontally and pull most of the bread out of the top part (save the bread in a bag in the freezer to make bread crumbs or croutons later).  Spread a layer of hummus on the bottom of each roll, then top with the tuna mixture, radishes and cucumbers, and herbs of choice.  Sprinkle with grated lemon zest.  Replace the top of the roll and press together gently.  Serve at once.