Sunday, July 21, 2019

Cold Chile Noodles


A bowl of cold, spicy noodles with a pile of crunchy vegetables is just the ticket for a hot summer day, don't you think?  And very healthy to boot.  This recipe is extremely simple to make and can varied according to whatever crunchy vegetables you happen to have on hand, although the red cabbage is really nice.  If you really like spice, add a sliced jalapeno or Fresno chile.  And of course some rotisserie chicken or leftover roast pork would be a nice addition for a more substantial bowl, but we really like it as a vegetarian meal.  The herbs play an important part in terms of freshness and taste, and it's best to use a combo - I used cilantro, mint, basil and dill.  Try to use at least two or three of your favorites.

Tip: if it's a really hot day, refrigerate the pasta, chile oil and serving bowls in advance and take them out right before serving.  That's a trick that fancy restaurants sometimes use with salad bowls to make the salad seem really cold and crisp.  It's a fun surprise compared to your usual bowl of pasta and sauce.

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Cold Chile Noodles
Serves 4

For the noodles:
½ cup canola oil
1 tablespoon fennel seed
1 tablespoon red pepper flakes
2 garlic cloves, grated
1 lb spaghetti
2 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
Salt and pepper

For the vegetables:
½ head red cabbage, thinly sliced
Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon lemon zest
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 green onions, thinly sliced
4-6 radishes, thinly sliced
1 cup loosely packed chopped fresh herbs – any combination of cilantro, dill, basil, mint, parsley
½ cup coarsely chopped or crushed peanuts


Heat the oil, fennel seeds, red pepper flakes and garlic in a small saucepan over the lowest heat possible.  Cook, stirring frequently, until you start to see the garlic and spices frizzle in the oil, 5-8 minutes.  Keep cooking at the lowest heat setting until the spices are toasted, another few minutes, but don’t let the garlic get too brown.  Remove from the heat.

Meanwhile, cook the pasta according to package directions; drain and rinse in cold water.  Drain again, then place in a large bowl and toss with a small amount of canola oil to prevent sticking.  If not using right away, the pasta can be put in the refrigerator until ready to serve.

Place the cabbage in a medium bowl and toss with the lemon zest and juice.  Season with salt and pepper and toss with the 2 tablespoons of olive oil.

When ready to serve, toss the pasta with the vinegar and season with salt and pepper.  Add just enough chile oil to coat and toss again.  Divide between shallow bowls and top with cabbage, green onions, radishes, herbs and peanuts.  Pass any additional chile oil at the table.




Sunday, July 7, 2019

Sheet Pan Trout and Broccolini


I recently discovered trout.  It's sustainable, healthy, very mild, boneless (when purchased in fillets), easy to cook and reasonable in price.  What's not to like?  In terms of taste, rainbow trout tends to be a little milder than red trout, which has just a touch of salmon-ish flavor.  I particularly like red trout because of the flavor and because they're so pretty - check out how they look when raw (below).


This is a great recipe for trout because it's so easy and foolproof.  If you can't find Aleppo pepper for the sauce, consider ordering it online because it's delicious and very versatile.  It has just a hint of heat and a wonderful warm taste that goes well on fish, chicken, eggs, pasta, veggie dishes, you name it.  If you don't want to buy Aleppo pepper use just a touch of red pepper flakes or chili powder instead.

I served the trout and broccolini with herbed polenta, but mashed potatoes would be equally good.


I think trout is probably the easiest fish to cook because it cooks evenly and fast and doesn't dry out or become tough.  If you've ever ruined a $20 piece of halibut or sea bass you know what I'm talking about.

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Sheet Pan Trout and Broccolini
Serves 4

½ garlic clove, finely grated
2 teaspoons Aleppo pepper (or 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes)
¼ olive oil, plus more for drizzling
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, plus 1 lemon, thinly sliced
Kosher salt and black pepper
4 trout fillets, about 6-8 ounces each
2 bunches broccolini, ends trimmed
2 tablespoons capers



Heat oven to 450d.

To make the sauce, combine garlic, Aleppo pepper, ¼ cup olive oil and 2 tablespoons lemon juice in a small bowl and season with salt and pepper.  Set aside.

If the broccolini stems are relatively thick, cut each stem in half lengthwise to facilitate cooking.
Lay the trout fillets skin side down on a sheet pan next to each other.  Place lemon slices on the trout and scatter broccolini and capers around it.   Drizzle everything with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

Place the sheet pan in the oven on the middle rack and roast until broccolini has started to lightly char around the edges and the trout is opaque and cooked through, 8-10 minutes.  Remove from the oven, push the lemon slices off the top of the trout, and immediately drizzle everything with the sauce.  Let the flavors mingle for a minute or two before dividing among 4 plates.