Thursday, January 25, 2018

Spinach and Ricotta Cannelloni

Last Year's Post: Porchetta
Two Years Ago:   Sesame Salmon en Papillote

I gave myself a challenge recently to make cannelloni from scratch - cooking the spinach, making the ricotta, and using fresh pasta sheets.  I found fresh pasta sheets at my local upscale grocer, or you can often find them in Italian markets.  The other alternative if you don't want to make your own pasta is to use no-boil lasagna noodles (Barilla brand has a texture closest to delicate fresh pasta).  Why not use cannelloni or manicotta tubes out of a box?  Because they're thick and chewy and nothing like delicate fresh pasta.

Anyway, it was an interesting afternoon project but I wouldn't try it on a week night.  I started by making the filling which involved making fresh homemade ricotta, which only took about 90 minutes.  If you can find high-quality fresh ricotta locally (try the Italian markets) you could skip this step, but it was really easy.  Just don't use the chalky watery stuff from the grocery store.  Then I cooked mature spinach leaves rather than baby spinach because they have more flavor and don't cook down into a slimy mess like baby spinach tends to.



After making the filling, I briefly cooked the pasta sheets and assembled the cannelloni, then made the bechamel sauce.  Finally the bechamel, marinara, cannelloni and parmesan all went into the baking dish and then into the oven. (I used two smaller baking dishes rather than one large one because I wanted to freeze half for later.)





The end product was a very delicate and tender pasta with a beautiful soft filling.  The dish definitely tasted like something you'd get at a restaurant.  If you enjoy really good Italian food or like a challenge, this is a fun recipe to try.  And if you already make your own pasta, this would be a great addition to your recipe collection.


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Spinach and Ricotta Cannelloni
Serves 4

1 pound mature spinach leaves
7 ounces fresh ricotta cheese
1 large egg, lightly beaten
12 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, divided
Kosher salt
Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
8 pieces of fresh pasta (approx 4” x 5”) or 8 no-boil lasagna noodles (preferably Barilla)
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
3 cups marinara or simple tomato sauce

For the béchamel sauce
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups whole milk, slightly warm or at room temperature
Pinch of ground nutmeg
Pinch of pepper
Kosher salt

Preheat oven to 425d.

Wash spinach well, discard stems, and cook covered over medium heat in a large pot for about 10 minutes, using only the water remaining on the leaves after washing.  Stir occasionally.  Drain well in a fine-mesh strainer, then place in a clean kitchen towel and squeeze out as much water as possible.  Finely chop the spinach and place in a medium bowl.  Add the ricotta, egg, 8 tablespoons grated parmesan, salt and nutmeg.  Mix well to combine.

If using fresh pasta sheets, cook for 1 minute in boiling salted water; if using no-boil lasagna noodles, cook for 2 minutes or until flexible.  For either type of pasta, drain and immediately submerge in cold water; let sit for a few minutes, then remove and let dry on a clean kitchen towel in a single layer.  If necessary, cut the pasta sheets to the right size.

Meanwhile, make the béchamel sauce:  melt butter in a saucepan over low heat.  With a wire whisk, whisk flour into the melted butter.  Continue cooking over low heat, whisking continuously, for 2-3 minutes.  Slowly pour in the milk while whisking continuously to prevent lumps. (If a few lumps form, continue whisking and they should dissolve.)  Season with nutmeg, pepper, and 1/2 teaspoon salt.  Raise the heat to medium and continue whisking until the mixture thickens, about 5-7 minutes.  Taste and adjust seasonings; remove from the heat, cover and keep warm.

Place a spoonful of filling across one of the short ends of each pasta sheet and roll up to form a tube.   Spray a baking dish (big enough to hold the cannelloni in a single layer) with non-stick spray.  Spoon one ladle of béchamel into the dish and spread evenly over the bottom, then add a ladle of marinara or tomato sauce.  Place the cannelloni in the baking dish, cover with the remaining marinara and béchamel and then sprinkle with the remaining 4 tablespoons of parmesan.  Dot the top with the tablespoon of unsalted butter.
                                                                                                                             
Bake until golden brown, about 15 – 20 minutes.



Friday, January 19, 2018

Greek Shrimp, Farro and Kale with Feta

Last Year's Post: Skinny Chicken Caesar Salad
Two Years Ago:   Shrimp and Bacon Ramen

This is a very of-the-moment recipe with the addition of farro and kale to a more traditional Greek shrimp flavor profile.  The recipe is slightly adapted from one courtesy of Sara Moulton, who I've always enjoyed as a professional chef who cooks very accessible, simple and delicious meals.  Aside from cooking the farro in advance, this dish is cooked in one pan and is ready start to finish in around 30-40 minutes.  Flavors include garlic, wine, oregano, and tomatoes in addition to chewy farro, tender shrimp and creamy feta.  It's a very satisfying dish while also extremely healthy.

Farro has a ton of fiber and protein and supplies more than 10 vitamins and minerals.  However, it's a type of wheat, as is barley, so if you're gluten-free brown rice would make a good substitute.

A brief note on cherry tomatoes:  this particular recipe calls for fresh cherry tomatoes, but I've gotten in the habit of roasting leftover cherry tomatoes before they go bad and sticking them in the freezer for future use.  They work great in this recipe, in addition to in other pastas, salads, and on pizzas.  Just a suggestion.

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Greek Shrimp, Farro and Kale with Feta
Serves 4

Note: the farro needs to be cooked in advance so plan ahead.

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
12 ounces peeled and deveined jumbo shrimp
1 cup finely chopped onion
Kosher salt
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 cup halved cherry tomatoes
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes (or more to taste)
1 bunch Tuscan kale, leaves stripped from stems and thinly cut crosswise into strips
Freshly ground black pepper
½ cup dry white wine
2 cups cooked farro
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano
4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled
1 cup chicken broth

Preheat oven to 400d.

Heat 1 ½ tablespoons of oil in a large skillet with a heatproof handle over medium-high heat.  Add the shrimp and cook, undisturbed, 1 minute until the shrimp turn golden.  Flip and cook 1 more minute (they should not be fully cooked through).  Remove to a medium bowl. 

Add another tablespoon of oil to the skillet, reduce heat to medium low and add the onion along with a pinch of salt.  Cook, stirring occasionally until golden, about 5-10 minutes.  Add the garlic, tomatoes and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring for 1 minute.  Transfer the mixture to the bowl with the shrimp.

Increase the heat to high, add the remaining1 ½ tablespoons oil to the pan and add the kale.  Cook, stirring until it wilts, about 3-4 minutes.  Add salt and pepper to taste and add to the bowl with the shrimp.


Add the wine to the skillet and deglaze by scraping with a wooden spoon.  Boil until reduced to a few tablespoons, then add the farro, oregano, half the feta and the chicken broth and bring to a boil.  Stir in all the ingredients in the shrimp bowl, pushing the shrimp down slightly into the mixture.  Top with the remaining crumbled feta and transfer the pan to the oven.  Bake for 10 minutes or until the cheese is melted.  Serve immediately.

Friday, January 12, 2018

Fresh Homemade Ricotta

Last Year's Post: Slow Cooker Marinara
Two Years Ago:   Quinoa Stuffed Peppers

I recently gave myself a challenge to make spinach and ricotta cannelloni from scratch.  I didn't go full-on crazy since I bought fresh pasta sheets from the store, but I did decide to make my own ricotta and grate my own Parmigiano-Reggiano and cook the spinach from fresh.  Although the project took a few hours, it was fun and the results were spectacular.  I'll post that recipe soon.

In the meantime, the fresh ricotta was such a revelation that I wanted to post it right away.  I've never been a big ricotta fan because I've only used supermarket brands that are typically chalky and watery.  Fresh homemade ricotta, in contrast, is very creamy and rich and as moist (or dry) as you want to make it.  For example, if you want to use it as a spread on crostini, you might want to keep it more moist.  For my cannelloni, I wanted it a little on the dry side so the filling didn't leak as the pasta baked. 



It's incredibly easy to make - just heat some milk and cream with a little salt, add some lemon juice to curdle it, and strain it until it reaches your desired consistency, then refrigerate until ready to use.  (You can make it a few hours or days in advance of the actual recipe where you want to use it.)  Some recipes call for using vinegar to curdle the mixture, but the lemon juice really adds a nice subtle note - just be sure to use fresh lemon juice, not bottled.  One note of caution - I've read comments that ultra-pasteurized organic milk will not curdle although I haven't tried it, so you might want to use milk that's not ultra-pasteurized.

Fresh ricotta has many uses, from appetizers to ravioli to lasagna.  It's a way to up your game that will impress people no end, and no one needs to know how easy it is.  I'll never buy ricotta again.



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Fresh Homemade Ricotta
Yield: 1 1/2 - 2 cups (approximately 11 ounces)

3 cups whole milk
1 cup of heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt or sea salt
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice or white vinegar (lemon juice is preferred for flavor, but vinegar can be used as long as it is a neutral, white vinegar)
3 large squares cheesecloth


Prepare either a fine-holed colander or a fine-mesh strainer by lining it with the layers of cheesecloth and placing it in a larger bowl. Set aside.

In a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat the milk, cream, and salt over medium heat just until it reaches 190 degrees Fahrenheit, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking or burning.  Remove the pot from the heat and pour in the acid (lemon juice or vinegar).  Stir with a wooden spoon to incorporate the acid well. Curds will start to form immediately.  Let the mixture sit for about 5 minutes, undisturbed, and then pour it into the prepared cheesecloth-lined colander or strainer. 

Let it sit, undisturbed, for anywhere from half an hour (for a wetter, thinner consistency) to 2 hours (for thicker, creamier, dryer ricotta). It depends on your preference and how you intend to use it. Check the ricotta periodically to determine whether it has reached your desired consistency and to drain the bowl if the liquid is getting close to the bottom of the cheesecloth.  As soon as the bowl is cool enough you can transfer it to the refrigerator to finish straining there.

When the ricotta is to your liking, scrape it into an airtight covered container and refrigerate for up to several days.




Friday, January 5, 2018

Red Lentil and Chorizo Soup

Last Year's Post:  Endive, Apple and Avocado Salad
Two Years Ago:   Chicken and Wild Rice

OK, most of the country is freezing and it's the new year, which means healthy resolutions.  Time for soup.

This is a fresh take on lentil or split pea soup, where Mexican chorizo takes the place of the more traditional smoked sausage or ham.  The chorizo and ground cumin give the soup more of a southwestern profile instead of the German or Russian flavors often associated with a lentil soup.  Red lentils are somewhat more unusual and slightly harder to find than brown or green lentils, but taste basically the same.  I found them at my local Sprouts store in the bulk aisle; you'll generally find them in most natural food stores and of course at Whole Foods.  The reason why they're worth searching out for this soup is purely aesthetic - the yellow color of the cooked lentils contrasts nicely with the green spinach and reddish chorizo and takes it out of the whole "green/brown glop" category that characterizes so many lentil or split pea soups.

Every time I post a recipe with chorizo I feel the need to add the same caution:  Mexican chorizo and Spanish chorizo are two different things.  Mexican chorizo, which is what this recipe calls for, is a fresh (uncooked) sausage sold either in a tube or on a tray - think Italian sausage but without casings.  Spanish chorizo, on the other hand, is a cured dried sausage that looks like a pepperoni link.  If you can't find Mexican chorizo, you can use hot Italian sausage instead - just take it out of the casings.  Either way, the spicy sausage is the perfect addition for what would otherwise be a fairly bland soup so don't leave it out.  And because chorizo is pretty spicy, the sour cream adds nice cooling and creamy accent as well.

Now that it's winter, soup is the perfect comfort food and lentil soup is not only comforting, but good for you and delicious as well.  This soup is ready in about 30 minutes, making it a great weeknight meal.

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Red Lentil and Chorizo Soup
Serves 4-6

5 cups low-sodium chicken broth
2 cups water
1 lb dried red lentils
1 small yellow onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons ground cumin
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
8 ounces fresh Mexican chorizo (or hot Italian sausage without casings)
Salt and freshly ground pepper
5 ounces baby spinach, stems removed
1 cup sour cream or Greek yogurt

  
In a 5-quart soup pot, bring broth, water, lentils, onion, garlic, cumin, and cayenne pepper to a boil; reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer 25 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add chorizo or sausage and cook, breaking up chunks into small crumbles with a wooden spoon, until fully cooked through. Remove and drain on paper towels.  

Stir the soup and add salt and pepper to taste, remembering that the chorizo will add both salt and spice. Add the spinach to soup and cook 3 to 4 minutes longer, until spinach is wilted.  Serve the soup topped with chorizo and a dollop of sour cream or yogurt.