Quick Pickled Onions

I don't normally post recipes for garnishes or condiments, but this one is good enough to deserve attention.  Sometimes the right condiment can make a big difference in a finished dish as a contrast to the other flavors and textures, but it needs to have big flavor to stand out.  In this recipe red onions are pickled for just a few hours so they retain some crunch but pick up a vinegary pop and complexity from the whole spices.

I first discovered this recipe as a recommended garnish for fried rice of all things, but I've noticed that chef Rick Bayless often recommends pickled onions as a garnish for Mexican dishes such as tacos, enchiladas, tortas and meatballs.  I've used pickled onions as a topping for burgers and find them to be much better than regular onion, and they also work well in rice bowls and noodle bowls.  And they're the perfect accompaniment for any grilled or barbecued meats such as pulled pork or ribs because the vinegar cuts through all that fatty richness.  Finally, hot dishes that are creamy also benefit from a garnish of a few pickled onions for contrast.

Basically, they go with pretty much everything so I find myself making them often.  They're extremely easy to make and marinating them for just a few hours ensures the onions don't get too soft.  If you have barbecue or burgers or Mexican food on the menu, do give them a try.  They're worth it.

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 Quick Pickled Onions

Serves 6-8

½ red onion, thinly sliced

½ cup white vinegar or apple cider vinegar

½ cup water

¾ teaspoon kosher salt

1 ½ tablespoons sugar (or honey or other substitute)

1-2 teaspoons whole spices, optional (any combination of whole peppercorns, fennel seed, cumin, caraway seeds, coriander)

  

Place the vinegar, water, salt, sugar and whole spices in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat.  Simmer 2-3 minutes, stirring.  Remove from the stove and let cool completely.

Place the onions in a jar and pour over the liquid and spices.  Cover tightly and store in the refrigerator for at least an hour and up to 6 hours before use, shaking occasionally.

The pickled onions may be kept in the refrigerator for several days.

Zucchini Gratin with Gruyere

It's zucchini time again, whether it comes from your garden, the farm stand, or the grocery store.  This is a Provencal-style gratin where the veggies are bound with rice and a small amount of eggs and the flavor is boosted by herbs, Gruyere and parmesan.  Pine nuts are sprinkled on the top for some crunch, but if you don't have pint nuts you could use some slivered almonds or even some panko bread crumbs moistened with olive oil.

I thought about adding some corn but ultimately decided against it because I wanted the zucchini to be the star (but you certainly could).  To make it even more summery (and because you're probably growing herbs in your garden as well), make the herb sauce to go with it.  Add some crusty grilled bread and you have the perfect summer vegetarian meal.  Or, sneak in a little cubed ham and the meal becomes a little more substantial while still remaining vegetable-centric.

And my favorite part?  The last line of the recipe: "The gratin is good hot, warm, or room temperature."  Perfect warm for dinner, and cold for lunch the next day.

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Zucchini Gratin with Gruyere

Serves 6

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

½ medium onion, chopped (about 1 cup chopped)

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 Fresno chile, diced

1 pound zucchini, cut lengthwise into quarters and then crosswise into ½ inch pieces

1 small red bell pepper, chopped into ½ inch pieces

 Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

2 large or extra-large eggs

½ teaspoon salt

 Freshly ground pepper

½ cup milk

1 cup cooked Arborio or Carnaroli rice (1/3 cup raw)

1 teaspoon coarsely chopped fresh thyme leaves

1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil

½ cup (tightly packed) grated Gruyère cheese

¼ cup (tightly packed) freshly grated Parmesan

1 cup cooked cubed ham, optional

2 tablespoons pine nuts, lightly toasted

Green herb sauce, for serving, optional (see recipe below)

Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat and add the onion. Cook, stirring often, until tender, 5 to 8 minutes, and add the garlic, Fresno chile, summer squash, red bell pepper, and about 3/4 teaspoon salt. Turn the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring, until the squash is translucent and the red pepper tender, about 10 minutes. Add freshly ground pepper, taste and adjust salt. Stir in the parsley and remove from the heat.   Let cool.

Preheat the oven to 375d.

Oil a 2-quart baking dish with olive oil. In a medium bowl, beat together the eggs, salt, pepper, and milk. Stir in the rice, thyme, basil, the sautéed squash, the cheeses and optional ham. Scrape into the baking dish.  Sprinkle the pine nuts over the top.

Bake 35 to 40 minutes, until nicely browned on the top and edges. Remove from the oven and allow to stand for at least 10 minutes before serving, or allow to cool. The gratin is good hot, warm, or room temperature.

Green Herb Sauce

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup finely chopped cilantro, basil, or a combination

¼ cup finely chopped Italian parsley

¼ cup finely minced shallot

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (optional)

Mix all ingredients in a small food processor until well combined.